I called Lecarra this morning and found out they had just received their Mark X steering wheels and would be shipping them out right away. Don't know if mine is drop shipping direct from them or through Summit but I should have my wheel in a few days. The long range weather forecast for next Wednesday and Thursday is calling for sunny weather with temps in the upper 40's. That should be perfect for trailering the '41 to LA Trim for the carpet install.
Picked up the flange gaskets for the rear end and the clutch alignment tool from Auto Zone this afternoon. Also bought the brake lines and fittings I needed. AZ lets you borrow tools for free so I checked out a double flaring tool kit too. However, when I got ready to practice with the flaring tool, I discovered the counter guy had given me a metric set for 3/16 brake line. Don't think that will make a very nice flare. I'll take it back tomorrow and get one for SAE sizes. AZ didn't have one adapter I needed so I checked with the local NAPA store. They will have one for me tomorrow. It's a T fitting that allows 3/16 brake line in and out with a 1/8 NPT on the third opening. This will allow me to connect the original brake light switch in the brake line.
The axles, brake drums and wheels are reinstalled on the rear and I filled the rear end with gear lube. That part is done! Since I couldn't do any more with the brake lines, I cleaned and painted the pivot arm for the clutch. That's the part that connects the clutch pedal to the linkage and pivots on the original master cylinder.
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
Monday, February 27, 2012
New radio
Here's a pic of the new radio installed in the dash.
There's a port on the front to allow plugging in an iPod/mp3 player. But then you have a cord hanging out the front of the dash. I like the accessory panel better. It can be mounted under the dash or hidden in the glove box and accepts USB, data card or mp3 input. I'm going with the hidden install in the glove box. A small remote comes with the radio too.
There's a port on the front to allow plugging in an iPod/mp3 player. But then you have a cord hanging out the front of the dash. I like the accessory panel better. It can be mounted under the dash or hidden in the glove box and accepts USB, data card or mp3 input. I'm going with the hidden install in the glove box. A small remote comes with the radio too.
Got a few more things done today. The gas bowl filter that attaches to the gas tank and the stock fuel line are reinstalled. I cleaned the fuel line by spraying carb cleaner inside and blowing it thru the line with compressed air. It came out quite clean. I moved the rear brake line that ran from the rear end T fitting to the frame. It is now connected to the shock cross member which is tight to the floor right above the rear end. All the brake line measurements are recorded so I can pick up some line tomorrow and begin making the lengths needed. The master cylinder is reinstalled and the steering wheel adapter is mounted to the Ididit column. I also installed the turn signal arm, column tilt lever and hazard light button on the steering column.
I called Scott at Scott's Signs today to check the progress on the gauge panel he is painting for me. Looks like it will be ready on Wednesday. Now if I could just get a steering wheel! Think I'll call Lecarra again tomorrow and see if they have a solid delivery idea or an alternate wheel.
Sunday, February 26, 2012
Carpet prep
Dan and I made the trip to LA Trim on Thursday and met Dale Dawson the owner. Dale looked at the worn out front carpet and discolored rear piece and offered his advice on the best way to proceed. It was looking like I would be making multiple trips between my home in Jenison and his shop in Lowell and I'd still be trusting my own measurement and marking abilities. Each trip would be 27 miles one way and with gas prices climbing like they have been, that expense would start to add up. I had been reluctant to consider taking the car to Dale's shop because I didn't have a way to get it there. Dan had solved that problem for me on the way out to Lowell. He had sold his trailer to another club member and Dan was sure he'd be able to borrow it for a couple days. So, once I realized how much easier it would be for Dale to do the job and create a professional fit, it was a simple decision to take the car to him. He's squeezing the '41 in for a 1-2 day turn around on Mar 7th. Weather conditions are always a consideration this time of year so we'll have to see how things work out.
The wife and I got back this morning from our relaxing get away on Saturday and once my chores were completed and the Daytona 500 was postponed, I headed out to the garage to get a few things done on the car. I installed the steering linkage and had my wife lend a hand to install the steering column. Those parts are now installed to stay.
This way Dale can make a proper sized opening for the steering column in the new carpet. He also suggested I install the front seat adjuster as the carpet has to tuck around the framework for the adjuster. Several items on the adjuster needed straightening and realigning and when that was done, it was bolted to the floor. The transmission/bell housing cover is bolted in also to provide the full contour for the floor.
The flange gaskets for the rear axle bearings won't be here until Tuesday but I scraped off the old gaskets from the brake backing plates so the axle install should only take a few minutes. I'm glad I decided to change center sections in the rear end. The lube was gray indicating the side gear was continuing to wear on the inside of the case and grinding metal out of the cast iron case. Good thing I didn't take any long trips.
When I bought all the new parts for the updates on the car, I had purchased a new radio from Retro Sound. The speakers were already installed so tonight I spent some time fitting the radio to the dashboard. The T and C pull cables (Throttle and Choke) were no longer being used and the excess cable was getting in the way under the dash so I had previously cut off the cables and used only the knobs to insert thru the dash. The stock appearance is maintained without the extra cables hanging under the dash. The cable knobs also hold the radio trim pieces to the front of the dash so all that had to be considered when fitting the radio. Once the parts were assembled and the radio was in place, the wife and I both agreed that the radio panel needed to be painted to match the steering column. The color is close to the radio trim pieces that attach to the front of the dash. So, out came the spray can and the faceplate as well as the inner part of the radio knobs got a fresh coat of the custom beige paint. Once the paint is dry and I've completed the radio install, I'll post pics.
My goal for the coming week is to complete the brake line installation and set the engine in place long enough to allow the front coil springs to be installed. I'll need the engine weight to overcome the spring tension as the lower control arm is raised and the ball joint is reattached. The front shocks can be installed then too. Once those tasks are completed, Tom from Maksim's is planning to come over to help me bleed the brakes and do a preliminary front end alignment before the front sheet metal is reinstalled. The final alignment adjustments will be completed when I can drive it to Maksims.
I had to laugh when I went to Auto Zone to order the flange gaskets on Friday. Parts guys today always want to know what year and brand of car you have so they can look up parts in their computer. In my case, the year of the CAR has nothing to do with many of the parts. The kid looked at me a bit funny when I told him I needed flange gaskets for a 1957 Chevy rearend. He pulled up the 57 Chevy page and then asked "What engine?" I smiled and told him the 57 rear end was in a 41 Chevy so the engine didn't mean anything - "just pick one, they're all the same", I told him. Once he figured out the flange gaskets, I told him I also needed a clutch alignment tool for a 1986 S-10 Pickup. "This for the same car?" the kid says. "Yup", says me. "The transmission and clutch disk are from an S-10 and the flywheel and pressure plate are originals for the '41." Now his curiosity was getting the better of him. "What kind of engine are you running?" he asked. "Well, it's a '53 Chevy inline 6 with a '61 cylinder head for more compression. It's running a custom camshaft and aftermarket 4 bbl intake along with cast iron headers and dual exhaust." His eyes got real big after that explanation. And when I asked about the brake line sizes they stock, he invited me behind the counter to check out their inventory. I think I made a friend. Lol.
The wife and I got back this morning from our relaxing get away on Saturday and once my chores were completed and the Daytona 500 was postponed, I headed out to the garage to get a few things done on the car. I installed the steering linkage and had my wife lend a hand to install the steering column. Those parts are now installed to stay.
This way Dale can make a proper sized opening for the steering column in the new carpet. He also suggested I install the front seat adjuster as the carpet has to tuck around the framework for the adjuster. Several items on the adjuster needed straightening and realigning and when that was done, it was bolted to the floor. The transmission/bell housing cover is bolted in also to provide the full contour for the floor.
The flange gaskets for the rear axle bearings won't be here until Tuesday but I scraped off the old gaskets from the brake backing plates so the axle install should only take a few minutes. I'm glad I decided to change center sections in the rear end. The lube was gray indicating the side gear was continuing to wear on the inside of the case and grinding metal out of the cast iron case. Good thing I didn't take any long trips.
When I bought all the new parts for the updates on the car, I had purchased a new radio from Retro Sound. The speakers were already installed so tonight I spent some time fitting the radio to the dashboard. The T and C pull cables (Throttle and Choke) were no longer being used and the excess cable was getting in the way under the dash so I had previously cut off the cables and used only the knobs to insert thru the dash. The stock appearance is maintained without the extra cables hanging under the dash. The cable knobs also hold the radio trim pieces to the front of the dash so all that had to be considered when fitting the radio. Once the parts were assembled and the radio was in place, the wife and I both agreed that the radio panel needed to be painted to match the steering column. The color is close to the radio trim pieces that attach to the front of the dash. So, out came the spray can and the faceplate as well as the inner part of the radio knobs got a fresh coat of the custom beige paint. Once the paint is dry and I've completed the radio install, I'll post pics.
My goal for the coming week is to complete the brake line installation and set the engine in place long enough to allow the front coil springs to be installed. I'll need the engine weight to overcome the spring tension as the lower control arm is raised and the ball joint is reattached. The front shocks can be installed then too. Once those tasks are completed, Tom from Maksim's is planning to come over to help me bleed the brakes and do a preliminary front end alignment before the front sheet metal is reinstalled. The final alignment adjustments will be completed when I can drive it to Maksims.
I had to laugh when I went to Auto Zone to order the flange gaskets on Friday. Parts guys today always want to know what year and brand of car you have so they can look up parts in their computer. In my case, the year of the CAR has nothing to do with many of the parts. The kid looked at me a bit funny when I told him I needed flange gaskets for a 1957 Chevy rearend. He pulled up the 57 Chevy page and then asked "What engine?" I smiled and told him the 57 rear end was in a 41 Chevy so the engine didn't mean anything - "just pick one, they're all the same", I told him. Once he figured out the flange gaskets, I told him I also needed a clutch alignment tool for a 1986 S-10 Pickup. "This for the same car?" the kid says. "Yup", says me. "The transmission and clutch disk are from an S-10 and the flywheel and pressure plate are originals for the '41." Now his curiosity was getting the better of him. "What kind of engine are you running?" he asked. "Well, it's a '53 Chevy inline 6 with a '61 cylinder head for more compression. It's running a custom camshaft and aftermarket 4 bbl intake along with cast iron headers and dual exhaust." His eyes got real big after that explanation. And when I asked about the brake line sizes they stock, he invited me behind the counter to check out their inventory. I think I made a friend. Lol.
Wednesday, February 22, 2012
Keeping to the plan
As mentioned yesterday, the cleaned gas tank was ready for pick up at the Radiator Hospital today. That was my first stop after firing up the garage heater. When I got back, it was time to get after the rear end gear change. I had bought a new axle puller a while back and this was my first opportunity to use it. Another Chinese tool from Harbor Freight. First thing I discovered was the Chinese didn't allow for 6 lug, 5.5" bolt patterns. I had to grind two of opposing slots a little longer to match the bolt pattern. The puller then did its job and easily removed the axles. Took a while to scrape all the old gasket material off the housing but once that was done and the surface wiped with lacquer thinner, a new gasket coated with Copper Coat spray adhesive was installed. The 3.36:1 center section was lifted into place and fell in nicely. I had forgotten to order new bearing cover gaskets so reinstalling the axles will have to wait a couple days. I wanted to check the rear fender clearances in case I decided to buy two more of the Ansen style wheels now on the front so I had four that match. Since a 5 lug wheel won't fit too well on a 6 lug axle, I took this opportunity to install one of the axles from the '55 rear end I have as a spare. The Ansen wheels have 1/2" more rear back spacing but I still have plenty of clearance between the tire and the frame. So, having all four wheels the same is a definite possibility.
I had painted the top part of the gas tank before I began the rear end work and shot a couple coats of satin black on the bottom once I had finished. While that paint was drying, I got out the box for the Dolphin gauges and started reading the installation procedure for the new gas tank sender. Some measuring of tank depth, cutting of the sender support bracket and cutting and bending the float was all necessary to prep the new sending unit. Once all those steps were completed, the unit slipped right in and matched the tank bolt pattern perfectly. The tank was then slipped back in place and the retaining straps reinstalled. Then the filler next extension was slid into place and the clamps tightened. The fuel line and tank mounted filter still need to be installed in order to complete the fuel system.
While I was poking around in the Dolphin box, I came across the new water temp and oil pressure sending units. Unlike the stock mechanical units, the new ones are electric. Should make the engine compartment a bit neater being able to cleanly route a couple of wires instead of two kinked copper tubes. Both sending units came with the proper adapters for my engine and slipped in easily.
The old carpeting that came in the car is brittle and heavily worn in front. Plus the front section has a hole for the stock throttle rod that is no longer used and roughly cut holes for the clutch and brake pedals as well as the steering column. Dan and I are taking a drive to LA Trim tomorrow armed with the old carpet pieces and several pictures I took today. Hopefully, Dale at LA Trim will be able to duplicate the carpet and make it a bit wider to fit the floor better. He has already told me he would prefer to have the car at his shop but I'm gambling a bit. Plus, Dan and I would like to see his shop. I've seen examples of his work and it looked awesome.
No pics today as this was all pretty routine stuff. Plus, I didn't want to handle the camera with rear end lube on my hands! Yuk! Got a lot done this week but may not have much more time to work on the car until Sunday or Monday.
I had painted the top part of the gas tank before I began the rear end work and shot a couple coats of satin black on the bottom once I had finished. While that paint was drying, I got out the box for the Dolphin gauges and started reading the installation procedure for the new gas tank sender. Some measuring of tank depth, cutting of the sender support bracket and cutting and bending the float was all necessary to prep the new sending unit. Once all those steps were completed, the unit slipped right in and matched the tank bolt pattern perfectly. The tank was then slipped back in place and the retaining straps reinstalled. Then the filler next extension was slid into place and the clamps tightened. The fuel line and tank mounted filter still need to be installed in order to complete the fuel system.
While I was poking around in the Dolphin box, I came across the new water temp and oil pressure sending units. Unlike the stock mechanical units, the new ones are electric. Should make the engine compartment a bit neater being able to cleanly route a couple of wires instead of two kinked copper tubes. Both sending units came with the proper adapters for my engine and slipped in easily.
The old carpeting that came in the car is brittle and heavily worn in front. Plus the front section has a hole for the stock throttle rod that is no longer used and roughly cut holes for the clutch and brake pedals as well as the steering column. Dan and I are taking a drive to LA Trim tomorrow armed with the old carpet pieces and several pictures I took today. Hopefully, Dale at LA Trim will be able to duplicate the carpet and make it a bit wider to fit the floor better. He has already told me he would prefer to have the car at his shop but I'm gambling a bit. Plus, Dan and I would like to see his shop. I've seen examples of his work and it looked awesome.
No pics today as this was all pretty routine stuff. Plus, I didn't want to handle the camera with rear end lube on my hands! Yuk! Got a lot done this week but may not have much more time to work on the car until Sunday or Monday.
Tuesday, February 21, 2012
Pluggin' along
Today was my birthday and to celebrate, I spent the afternoon and part of the evening working in the garage! My wife has a surprise planned for this weekend so spending time in the man cave was acceptable tonight.
The Frost King insulation from Home Depot is now installed over the entire floor including under the rear seat. I covered all the seams with foil tape. I cut a new hole in the floor for master cylinder access and my brother welded some tabs on the ends to hold the cover plate in place.
I installed the new speakers in the front kick panels and reinstalled the kick panels along with the edge brackets and door edge brackets.
The speaker wires are connected behind the panels and the excess is hanging in place until the radio is installed. The area behind the rear seat that is a large rectangular opening to the trunk was open allowing the seat springs to be visible in the trunk. I cut a large piece of cardboard to cover that opening and painted it black before reinstalling the rear seat bottom rack and the back of the rear seat.
In order to properly cut out the opening for the steering column, I installed the rings for the Ididit column to the firewall. As I was trimming the insulation from the hole, I noticed a piece of metal protruding into the column opening. This would prevent the column from seating properly with the ball mount. Quick work with the air grinder removed that tab.
The Radiator Hospital called today to let me know the gas tank is cleaned and tested. There were some small pin holes in the top of the tank which were repaired along with the cleaning. Word is, the tank came out very clean and is half the price of a new one. Hopefully, it will stay clean and contaminant free. I also called Scott Sign today for a status update on my gauge panel but Scott was out and will have to call me back. The steering wheel is scheduled to ship in two days from Summit Racing and I'm keeping my fingers crossed it won't be back ordered again!
I also spent some time determining the lengths of brake line I'll need for the front brakes. I had some #14 electric motor quality bare copper wire in the drawer and decided to use that to make the brake line forms. The copper is quite soft and easy to form into needed bends and it was easy enough to straighten out again to measure the length needed for each side. Besides the master cylinder, adjustable proportioning valve and two residual valves that will have to be plumbed in the brake system, I realized the other day that I will also have to add a T fitting in order to add the pressure switch needed to activate the brake lights. The stock system had the pressure switch screwed into an orifice on the master cylinder. I plan to reuse that switch but I'll have to add the T fitting to provide connection to the brake system. The brake system is fast becoming the most complicated part of this entire retrofit.
That's it for today. Tomorrow I plan to pick up the gas tank and attack the rear of the car. The new pig/center section gets installed, fuel line goes back on and the gas tank goes back in place. And the copper wire will get used again to determine the rear brake lines. More pics coming up!
The Frost King insulation from Home Depot is now installed over the entire floor including under the rear seat. I covered all the seams with foil tape. I cut a new hole in the floor for master cylinder access and my brother welded some tabs on the ends to hold the cover plate in place.
I installed the new speakers in the front kick panels and reinstalled the kick panels along with the edge brackets and door edge brackets.
The speaker wires are connected behind the panels and the excess is hanging in place until the radio is installed. The area behind the rear seat that is a large rectangular opening to the trunk was open allowing the seat springs to be visible in the trunk. I cut a large piece of cardboard to cover that opening and painted it black before reinstalling the rear seat bottom rack and the back of the rear seat.
In order to properly cut out the opening for the steering column, I installed the rings for the Ididit column to the firewall. As I was trimming the insulation from the hole, I noticed a piece of metal protruding into the column opening. This would prevent the column from seating properly with the ball mount. Quick work with the air grinder removed that tab.
The Radiator Hospital called today to let me know the gas tank is cleaned and tested. There were some small pin holes in the top of the tank which were repaired along with the cleaning. Word is, the tank came out very clean and is half the price of a new one. Hopefully, it will stay clean and contaminant free. I also called Scott Sign today for a status update on my gauge panel but Scott was out and will have to call me back. The steering wheel is scheduled to ship in two days from Summit Racing and I'm keeping my fingers crossed it won't be back ordered again!
I also spent some time determining the lengths of brake line I'll need for the front brakes. I had some #14 electric motor quality bare copper wire in the drawer and decided to use that to make the brake line forms. The copper is quite soft and easy to form into needed bends and it was easy enough to straighten out again to measure the length needed for each side. Besides the master cylinder, adjustable proportioning valve and two residual valves that will have to be plumbed in the brake system, I realized the other day that I will also have to add a T fitting in order to add the pressure switch needed to activate the brake lights. The stock system had the pressure switch screwed into an orifice on the master cylinder. I plan to reuse that switch but I'll have to add the T fitting to provide connection to the brake system. The brake system is fast becoming the most complicated part of this entire retrofit.
That's it for today. Tomorrow I plan to pick up the gas tank and attack the rear of the car. The new pig/center section gets installed, fuel line goes back on and the gas tank goes back in place. And the copper wire will get used again to determine the rear brake lines. More pics coming up!
Thursday, February 16, 2012
POR-15
Wow! Two posts to my blog in the same day - first time for that. Figured I might as well post the pics of the floor after it was cleaned and POR-15 was applied.
First time I've used this product. I learned about it from many recommendations for it on Chevytalk.org. Luckily, Dick stocks pint cans at More Power so I picked up a pint the last time I was there. I had no idea this stuff would go so far either! That pint can did the entire floor and I still have enough left that I think I can do the trunk too. Once this dries thoroughly, I'll begin installation of the insulation/sound deadener.
First time I've used this product. I learned about it from many recommendations for it on Chevytalk.org. Luckily, Dick stocks pint cans at More Power so I picked up a pint the last time I was there. I had no idea this stuff would go so far either! That pint can did the entire floor and I still have enough left that I think I can do the trunk too. Once this dries thoroughly, I'll begin installation of the insulation/sound deadener.
More progress
Progress isn't always a highly visible thing. And, when you have parts spread all over the garage, sometimes sub assembly work needs to be done to reduce the clutter. It's been quite cold for the past week or so and I've opted to forgo the car work in order to get taxes done for my family members as well as keep up with my computer repair business. Yesterday, the temps climbed into the low 40's and the garage heater made things a comfy 62° in the garage.
I had primered the shims I had fabricated for mounting under the master cylinder adapter on Tues and figured I could paint the visible parts once they were installed. The master cylinder is now mounted to the adapter along with the brake pedal and arm as well as the return spring. The transmission cross member is still a bit tight under the master cylinder and I may dimple the interference point on the cross member before final installation. The fuel filter/shut off device that mounts directly to the gas tank had been disassembled on the bench. The glass bowl looked like something that could easily drop and break so those pieces were cleaned and reassembled before an accident could happen. The passenger side exhaust pipe is going to need reworking so I cut off the tail pipe a foot behind the muffler and removed the stub piece of pipe from the muffler. I can run the 41 to the muffler shop with one full pipe and the short one for the passenger side. Last week, I made a couple of brackets for the brake system. One will mount the proportioning valve for the rear and the other will relocate the flexible line running from the rear end to the frame. Moving the brake lines from the passenger side of the car to the driver's side and adding all the various hardware is taking some time to calculate. I realized a couple days ago that the master cylinder has to be plumbed in reverse. By that I mean that the reservoir pointing to the rear of the car is actually for the front brakes and the front reservoir is for the rear. This master cylinder was originally designed to mount to the firewall and face forward. Turned it around and mounting under the floor reverses the reservoirs.
The Lecarra steering wheel is still on back order from Summit Racing and scheduled now for the 23rd. I called Lecarra on the 3rd and they confirmed they had previously had issues with these wheels cracking and the process was being changed to prevent that from happening. With that in mind, I decided to go ahead and paint the rest of the steering column and mounting hardware. Painting the firewall with a spray gun had proved to be a messy job so last week I took the remainder of the black paint and the special beige paint NAPA had mixed for me and took them back to the store. The NAPA paint store offers a service to put paint in spray cans and that's what I had done. I had masked and primered the steering column last week. Yesterday those parts got 3 nice coats of the beige paint that was specially mixed to match the stock column and wheel.
I had been wondering how the seats would be removed from the car and didn't fully understand the brief description in the service manual. However, yesterday the method of removal became quite obvious. The front seat bottom lifts out of the frame like a couch cushion and the seat backs are held in with a couple cotter keys and a center bolt. Then the frame and adjuster are unbolted from the floor. The rear seat bottom is similarly held in by the frame work and simply lifts out. Then the seat back is pulled out from the bottom until a couple of retaining brackets at the top slide down and allow the entire seat back to be moved forward and out the door. The rear frame is then unscrewed from the raised area in the rear. Once I had the seats out, the stock rear carpet and floor padding was removed. Next was vacuuming out all the loose debris. I found some evidence of mice habitation long ago under the rear seat but the rest of the under seat area was fairly tidy. The stock floor padding will be replaced with a more modern form of adhesive backed, foil faced insulation designed for the heating and cooling industry. The padding will be applied over a fresh coat of POR-15 (Paint Over Rust) that will cover the entire interior floor and trunk area. I had previously been amazed at the condition of the floor as viewed from under the car. Now that the interior is exposed, I'm equally amazed at how solid this car is after being around for over 70 years!
Front seat removed.
Flooring with rear seat still in place.
Rear seat removed.
All padding removed exposing floor surface. A few surface rust spots but otherwise, solid as a rock!
Time to head back to the garage and get to work. The heater has it all warmed up again and the wire brush is waiting to be applied to the floor!
I had primered the shims I had fabricated for mounting under the master cylinder adapter on Tues and figured I could paint the visible parts once they were installed. The master cylinder is now mounted to the adapter along with the brake pedal and arm as well as the return spring. The transmission cross member is still a bit tight under the master cylinder and I may dimple the interference point on the cross member before final installation. The fuel filter/shut off device that mounts directly to the gas tank had been disassembled on the bench. The glass bowl looked like something that could easily drop and break so those pieces were cleaned and reassembled before an accident could happen. The passenger side exhaust pipe is going to need reworking so I cut off the tail pipe a foot behind the muffler and removed the stub piece of pipe from the muffler. I can run the 41 to the muffler shop with one full pipe and the short one for the passenger side. Last week, I made a couple of brackets for the brake system. One will mount the proportioning valve for the rear and the other will relocate the flexible line running from the rear end to the frame. Moving the brake lines from the passenger side of the car to the driver's side and adding all the various hardware is taking some time to calculate. I realized a couple days ago that the master cylinder has to be plumbed in reverse. By that I mean that the reservoir pointing to the rear of the car is actually for the front brakes and the front reservoir is for the rear. This master cylinder was originally designed to mount to the firewall and face forward. Turned it around and mounting under the floor reverses the reservoirs.
The Lecarra steering wheel is still on back order from Summit Racing and scheduled now for the 23rd. I called Lecarra on the 3rd and they confirmed they had previously had issues with these wheels cracking and the process was being changed to prevent that from happening. With that in mind, I decided to go ahead and paint the rest of the steering column and mounting hardware. Painting the firewall with a spray gun had proved to be a messy job so last week I took the remainder of the black paint and the special beige paint NAPA had mixed for me and took them back to the store. The NAPA paint store offers a service to put paint in spray cans and that's what I had done. I had masked and primered the steering column last week. Yesterday those parts got 3 nice coats of the beige paint that was specially mixed to match the stock column and wheel.
I had been wondering how the seats would be removed from the car and didn't fully understand the brief description in the service manual. However, yesterday the method of removal became quite obvious. The front seat bottom lifts out of the frame like a couch cushion and the seat backs are held in with a couple cotter keys and a center bolt. Then the frame and adjuster are unbolted from the floor. The rear seat bottom is similarly held in by the frame work and simply lifts out. Then the seat back is pulled out from the bottom until a couple of retaining brackets at the top slide down and allow the entire seat back to be moved forward and out the door. The rear frame is then unscrewed from the raised area in the rear. Once I had the seats out, the stock rear carpet and floor padding was removed. Next was vacuuming out all the loose debris. I found some evidence of mice habitation long ago under the rear seat but the rest of the under seat area was fairly tidy. The stock floor padding will be replaced with a more modern form of adhesive backed, foil faced insulation designed for the heating and cooling industry. The padding will be applied over a fresh coat of POR-15 (Paint Over Rust) that will cover the entire interior floor and trunk area. I had previously been amazed at the condition of the floor as viewed from under the car. Now that the interior is exposed, I'm equally amazed at how solid this car is after being around for over 70 years!
Front seat removed.
Rear seat removed.
All padding removed exposing floor surface. A few surface rust spots but otherwise, solid as a rock!
Time to head back to the garage and get to work. The heater has it all warmed up again and the wire brush is waiting to be applied to the floor!
Sunday, February 5, 2012
More brakes and other stuff
Received the brake parts from Chassis Engineering last week. The front, flexible lines that run from the brake calipers to brackets on the frame are braided stainless lines that come in a kit with fittings and hardware. The brake calipers are from a 78-81 Camaro/Firebird. I noticed the machining on the caliper that directs the ss brake line only allows for the cable running toward the front of the car. The frame brackets are mounted behind the wheels so this makes for a crazy bend in the line and could put the brake line in conflict with the coil springs. Here's a pic of the caliper with the banjo bolt and cable mounted as designed.
I got out the trusty die grinder and removed some of the casing ridge on the opposite side of the cable. The area marked in black is where material will be removed.
And here is the cable running toward the back of the car.
Here's the front end with the calipers painted and reinstalled with the new cables.
Now that the steering linkage is all painted, here's a pic of the Borgeson u-joints and double D shafts.
I dropped off the gas tank to the Radiator Hospital on Thursday. Fella there said he thinks the crud on the inside is just old gas and rust residue that can be removed and cleaned. If he's right, it'll save me buying a new tank which means I save $100+.
The exhaust system is now completely removed from the car. It was blocking access to the frame area where I need to install the brake lines. The pipe that crosses over the passenger side of the car will need to be rerouted so taking it off will make it easier to cut. I also realized the master cylinder looked mighty close to the frame area where the adapter is mounted. Figured I better test fit the transmission cross member with the master cylinder in place and it was a good thing I did! The mc just hits on the cross member and prevents it from sliding into position. Looks like I'm going to have to add a 1/8" space plate under the adapter to raise the entire system for clearance. Better to go slow and notice these things now than have to take it all apart and rebend brake lines later.
I received a return call from Jim at the Branson Auction regarding his knowledge of AA Classics in Nixa, Mo. Unfortunately, he did not know of that business. A little more internet searching did reveal a "fictitious name" registered with the State of Missouri in 1986 for AA Classics. The sole owner listed was James E. Taylor. There are several people with that name around Nixa but none answered the phone when I called. I'll make calls again soon to see if I can run down any info on the 41 having come from Missouri.
I got out the trusty die grinder and removed some of the casing ridge on the opposite side of the cable. The area marked in black is where material will be removed.
And here is the cable running toward the back of the car.
Here's the front end with the calipers painted and reinstalled with the new cables.
I dropped off the gas tank to the Radiator Hospital on Thursday. Fella there said he thinks the crud on the inside is just old gas and rust residue that can be removed and cleaned. If he's right, it'll save me buying a new tank which means I save $100+.
The exhaust system is now completely removed from the car. It was blocking access to the frame area where I need to install the brake lines. The pipe that crosses over the passenger side of the car will need to be rerouted so taking it off will make it easier to cut. I also realized the master cylinder looked mighty close to the frame area where the adapter is mounted. Figured I better test fit the transmission cross member with the master cylinder in place and it was a good thing I did! The mc just hits on the cross member and prevents it from sliding into position. Looks like I'm going to have to add a 1/8" space plate under the adapter to raise the entire system for clearance. Better to go slow and notice these things now than have to take it all apart and rebend brake lines later.
I received a return call from Jim at the Branson Auction regarding his knowledge of AA Classics in Nixa, Mo. Unfortunately, he did not know of that business. A little more internet searching did reveal a "fictitious name" registered with the State of Missouri in 1986 for AA Classics. The sole owner listed was James E. Taylor. There are several people with that name around Nixa but none answered the phone when I called. I'll make calls again soon to see if I can run down any info on the 41 having come from Missouri.
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